Spring Weekend in Greenwich, Connecticut

Spring arrived for me while I sat on a park bench overlooking Long Island Sound. It was mid-April, and after a long winter I had come to Greenwich, Connecticut, for a shot of southern New England sun. It did not disappoint. Fortified with a more- than-I-could-handle roast beef sandwich from Alpen Pantry, I anchored myself in Greenwich Point Park and gazed across the water to the Manhattan skyline. Around me: birdsong, daffodils, and a scattering of passersby whose easy pace indicated there was no other place they needed to be.

Greenwich is no stranger to admiration. Its proximity to New York City—it’s just an hour’s train ride to Grand Central Station— has long made this community of 63,000 residents a seaside retreat for wealthy ex–New Yorkers. Its real estate is famously among the most expensive in the country, and its main thoroughfare packs the kinds of names (Apple, Tesla, Saks) that you might expect to find on the other side of the Sound.

But look a little closer and you see something else: a white-steepled town dappled with Revolutionary War history situated on one of the most overlooked coastlines in the Northeast. Green spaces and homegrown businesses abound, and underneath all that shiny New York City veneer is a New England identity that is fiercely protected. “It’s one of the few places in New England where you can go hiking in the morning and then 30 minutes later be on a beach,” says Colin Pearson, the 35-year-old third-generation owner of the Stanton House Inn. “I’ve lived and traveled in other parts of the world, but this is where I wanted to come back to.”

As with most coastal towns, summer is when Greenwich runs at full tilt. Hotel prices skyrocket, and Connecticut’s notoriously private beaches are impossible to visit. Spring offers a different tenor: Room rates are deeply discounted from their July highs, Greenwich Avenue is open for business, and all that sand and water is delightfully easy to access.

One of the under-the-radar features of Greenwich is the abundance of public spaces for enjoying the welcome spring weather. Where one park ends, another begins. Greenwich is home to seven different Audubon Society sanctuaries, including the state’s main center, a 285-acre property whose seven miles of trails slice through forest and meadow.

But nothing compares to Greenwich Point Park. Located in the neighborhood of Old Greenwich, a community that dates back to 1640, this 147-acre property wraps around the Connecticut edges of Long Island Sound. There’s a long beach, walkways that keep visitors close to the water, and a launch point for kayakers and boaters. And if you come before May 1, you won’t have to pay to use any of it.

Greenwich isn’t just about the parks and sea, however. The food scene cuts a delicious path here, from the Alpen’s oversize sandwiches to Elm Street Oyster House, a 48-seat bistro that has been a mainstay of Greenwich’s downtown dining scene for three decades, to the decadent cinnamon buns made from scratch at Sweet Pea’s, a drop-in spot in the old part of town.

The cultural scene is equally rich. Putnam Cottage tells the story of Greenwich’s Revolutionary War history, while downtown’s C. Parker Gallery connects visitors with art and artists from around the world. The Bruce Museum, whose sprawling collection spans art, science, and natural history, is one of New England’s treasured museums, and this spring an expansive addition doubles its space with a suite of new galleries.

Finally, any visit to Greenwich needs to include Diane’s Books. Now in its fourth decade, this downtown shop is adored by readers and its authors. Across the walls are messages of love from well-known writers. “Ann Patchett is this tall,” the best-selling novelist scribbled in 1997. “Will check again next year.” Peruse those writings, then find your next beach read. Because it’s spring in Greenwich, and you just might need it.

Weekend Guide to Greenwich, Connecticut

Where to Eat in Greenwich, Connecticut

Sweet Pea’s: The morning menu at this inviting breakfast and lunch spot includes a French toast platter conjured from made-from-scratch cinnamon rolls.

Alpen Pantry: Tucked just off Old Greenwich’s main street, this longtime deli is famous for robust sandwiches such as the Cheddar Spreader (ham and cheese), the Francaise (French pâté), and the Beef Eater (roast beef piled upon more roast beef).

Elm Street Oyster House: Shrimp and grits, an inventive paella, and good old-fashioned fish and chips are mainstays at this popular downtown seafood restaurant.

Where to Stay in Greenwich, Connecticut

Stanton House Inn: Homey and cheerful, this 20-room B&B is within easy walking distance of Greenwich Avenue.

The Delamar: Featuring 82 elegant rooms and suites, this dog-friendly waterfront destination offers the kinds of amenities that keep guests in full vacation mode, from the complimentary “check-in” champagne to the free in-town transportation and seasonal cruises.

What to Do in Greenwich, Connecticut

Greenwich Point Park: Known to locals as Tod’s Point, this sprawling former estate turned town-owned beach and recreational facility features some of the finest public access to Long Island Sound available in Connecticut.

Bruce Museum: A new addition elevates an already treasured museum by providing new exhibition galleries for its art and science programs, as well as a new restaurant and an auditorium.

Putnam Cottage: Public events including tours and historical reenactments are held throughout the year at this 17th-century property, which served as a tavern during the American Revolution.

Greenwich Audubon Center: Nature programs, exhibits, miles of lovely walking trails, and even a coffee lounge can be found at Audubon’s Greenwich hub.

Where to Shop in Greenwich, Connecticut

Diane’s Books: The kids’ section alone is worth the visit to this independent shop.

Richards: Only the customer service feels old-fashioned at this upscale fashion store, located in the heart of Greenwich Avenue shopping.

C. Parker Gallery: Just whose work you find here may surprise you, as owner Tiffany Benincasa represents a broad range of artwork, including signed Linda McCartney photographs.

This feature first appeared in the March/April 2023 issue of Yankee Magazine.

Ian Aldrich

Ian Aldrich is the Senior Features Editor at Yankee magazine, where he has worked for more for nearly two decades. As the magazine’s staff feature writer, he writes stories that delve deep into issues facing communities throughout New England. In 2019 he received gold in the reporting category at the annual City-Regional Magazine conference for his story on New England’s opioid crisis. Ian’s work has been recognized by both the Best American Sports and Best American Travel Writing anthologies. He lives with his family in Dublin, New Hampshire.

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