It’s that time of year again, when the beer turns green and the aroma of corned beef and cabbage fills the air. Calling it an “aroma” might just be the beer talking, but the resulting flavor of meat, vegetables, and corned beef spices is so comforting we overlook the smell and raise our bowls for seconds. But just what is corned beef? Why is some corned beef red and some gray? Why do we eat corned beef on St. Patrick’s Day? Or maybe you’re wondering how to cook corned beef the “right” way? Read on…
What is corned beef? It’s the start of the quintessential American St. Patrick’s Day dinner! Get the recipe for this one (Aunt Val’s New England Corned Beef Dinner) below. Photo Credit : Michael Piazza
What is Corned Beef?
The easy answer to “What is corned beef?” is that it’s beef that has been cured in salt. The term has nothing to do with corn, the yellow kerneled vegetable, but the English term for a small particle or granule, such as a grain of salt. In the days before modern refrigeration, salting meat was a way to preserve it and keep it from spoiling.
And why do we eat corned beef on St. Patrick’s Day every March 17th? According to The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, corned beef is an Americanized addition to the traditional Irish diet. While colcannon (boiled potatoes, cabbage, and leeks in buttermilk flavored with wild garlic) was a common Irish dish, as was brown soda bread, corned beef was produced “primarily for export to England.” Upon arriving in America, however, it’s thought the Irish chose to celebrate their holiday with food typically not available to them in their home country, so corned beef was added to the menu, as was white soda bread studded with currants and caraway.
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Corned beef is usually made from beef brisket, which is a cut of meat from the breast or lower chest, but the rump, bottom round, and even tongue, can be used. In America, the term “corned beef” is used to describe both the cured meat and the canned stuff found on supermarket shelves. In Britain, they call the former “salt beef.”
To make corned beef (or salt beef), the meat is simmered in a blend of corned beef spices that may include peppercorns, garlic, mustard, tarragon, thyme, parsley, cloves, and nutmeg.
What is corned beef? The perfect sandwich filling! A Reuben sandwich consists of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and either Russian or Thousand Island dressing on rye bread.
In New England, you most often see corned beef served as a St. Patrick’s Day main dish, or in a sandwich. As the starring ingredient in New England Boiled Dinner, corned beef often pairs with potatoes, carrots, turnips, and cabbage in a hearty, savory, broth-y bowl of goodness. When used in a sandwich, the most popular corned beef sandwich is the Reuben. Considered the quintessential Jewish deli sandwich, a Reuben is toasted rye bread stuffed with hot slices of corned beef (piled high) and topped with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and either Russian or Thousand Island dressing.
SEE MORE: 6 Classic New England Sandwiches
In New England, a frequent point of interest is also whether you prefer red vs. gray corned beef. What’s the difference? “Red” brisket is cured with nitrite, which gives the meat its signature color. “Gray” corned beef (consider the authentic New England variety) is not cured with nitrate, so the color forms naturally as it brines.
Have corned beef leftovers? Here in New England, another corned beef favorite, corned beef hash, is often served at breakfast. Below we’ve supplied an easy corned beef hash recipe, plus a recipe for red-flannel hash (a local variation) if you’re partial to beets.
So just what is corned beef? The short answer is… “It’s delicious!”
Have you ever wondered “What is corned beef?” or searched for the perfect recipe for how to make corned beef at home? Well, you’re not alone — and we’re here to help!
This post was first published in 2016 and has been updated.
Aimee Tucker is Yankee Magazine’s Senior Digital Editor. A lifelong New Englander and Yankee contributor since 2010, Aimee has written columns devoted to history, foliage, retro food, and architecture, and regularly shares her experiences in New England travel, home, and gardening. Her most memorable Yankee experiences to date include meeting Stephen King, singing along to a James Taylor Fourth of July concert at Tanglewood, and taking to the skies in the Hood blimp for an open-air tour of the Massachusetts coastline.
Aimee, I loved your article about corned beef. So much good information! May I please offer a Russian twist on an old New England favorite? When making the red flannel corned beef hash, try using prepared beets and horseradish condiment. It adds another “layer” of flavor to an already delicious dish!
I have had an annual St Pat’s Dinner for my Irish and Non-Irish friends for the last few years. We like the Red Corned Beef. Everyone brings containers for left overs. I love making the hash for my breakfast the next day. I have saved the last piece for my Reuben sandwich for tomorrows lunch. My brother got to try his first Reuben on our trip to NYC last summer. He has had another since then. Thanks for sharing the story. I will have to retell the story at next years dinner.
Why not more information about the true New England Corned Beef (grey)? No nitrites/nitrates are a good thing! And it doesn’t have all those spices either as it’s cured in water, salt and sugar only. It does need one special step in preparing though, changing the water after an initial boil. After five to ten minutes, I remove the meat and place on a platter then wash the pot and start again with a new batch of cold water. That really helps the meal from being too salty. In addition to potatoes, carrots, turnip and cabbage, I also put Brussels Sprouts into my pot right after I add the cabbage. Proud to continue my Newburyport Grandmother’s heritage of cooking New England Boiled Dinners!!
As a lover of Jewish deli food, I would like to clarify one point in the article concerning whether the Reuben is a quintessential Jewish deli food. There are two types of Jewish delis: Kosher and non-kosher. The rules pertaining to Kosher food do not allow meat and dairy products to be eaten in the same meal. Since a Reuben sandwich contains corned beef (meat) and Swiss cheese (dairy), no kosher Jewish deli could serve a Reuben sandwich. The more secular Jewish delis have gotten away from the Kashruth (kosher) rules and will combine meat and cheese. Both kinds of Jewish delis serve delicious food and I mourn the loss of so many Jewish or “Jewish style” delis. A made on-premises corned beef or pastrami, from an experienced deli-master, is an experience to behold–even though it will clog your arteries.
Rather disappointing that the only recipes you give your readers are two for brisket not for corned beef ( grey)…there’s a big difference in the execution and results between the two. And all this comes right after your article states the traditional N.E. corned beef is grey (of course!). You still choose to use brisket in the recipes provided. Surely you realize one cannot be substituted for the other! Unfortunately, if a reader is looking for a recipe, they most likely do not.
Rival Crockpot has a recipe for Ruben Soup that is easy and very hearty for cold snowy spring days. It makes enough to easily feed a family and friends.
For a sandwich I steam the corned beef in a double boiler pot with a basket with the spices in the water for about 3 hours. I also steam quarter cabbage and potatoes and carrots.
Eat corned beef year round! Happy White Irish Month. Point cut is where it is at if you love a nice juicy fat beef, most people do not realize and listen to recipes that say always buy flat cut beef.
I use the canned corned beef to make a Schoolhouse BBQ. Had it when I was in elementary many years back and my neighbor who cooked there reduced the recipe to feed a normal family. Only time I eat it. 1 can corned beef on a medium skillet, 1/2 cup water, mash the beef down, add 1 cup ketchup, wosterchire-1 tsp., dash of salt. diced onion if you want. stir, simeer until it thickens, stir occasionally. 15-20 minutes, serve on buns with mayo and a slice of tomato. Easy meal.
Just want to add this ‘recipe’ for a sandwich our family has loved for many years. We used to get it in a little deli in Avalon, NJ. Just called the Corned beef Special. On Rye bread with 1000 island dressing lots of corned beef topped with coleslaw. Simple but delicious and I’m surprised we haven’t seen it more. One time, also in NJ we saw it as the New Yorker. Good fresh rye bread is essential!
Hi I am an Irish American from Boston. My family plus visitors always enjoyed a boiled dinner made with gray brisket corned beef on the day of the Saint Patrick’s parade. My mother made the best hash with the left overs. The corned beef sandwich described in this article, we called a Reuben. A Reuben was sandwich you could get at the local deli. The Reuben sandwich. although delicious, wasn’t something typically made in the Irish American household. The Reuben sandwich is made with warm corned beef (usually red brisket), swiss cheese, sauerkraut, topped with Russian dressing and served on dark Rye bread. It is delicious!
Aimee, I loved your article about corned beef. So much good information! May I please offer a Russian twist on an old New England favorite? When making the red flannel corned beef hash, try using prepared beets and horseradish condiment. It adds another “layer” of flavor to an already delicious dish!
I have had an annual St Pat’s Dinner for my Irish and Non-Irish friends for the last few years. We like the Red Corned Beef. Everyone brings containers for left overs. I love making the hash for my breakfast the next day. I have saved the last piece for my Reuben sandwich for tomorrows lunch. My brother got to try his first Reuben on our trip to NYC last summer. He has had another since then. Thanks for sharing the story. I will have to retell the story at next years dinner.
Why not more information about the true New England Corned Beef (grey)? No nitrites/nitrates are a good thing! And it doesn’t have all those spices either as it’s cured in water, salt and sugar only. It does need one special step in preparing though, changing the water after an initial boil. After five to ten minutes, I remove the meat and place on a platter then wash the pot and start again with a new batch of cold water. That really helps the meal from being too salty. In addition to potatoes, carrots, turnip and cabbage, I also put Brussels Sprouts into my pot right after I add the cabbage. Proud to continue my Newburyport Grandmother’s heritage of cooking New England Boiled Dinners!!
As a lover of Jewish deli food, I would like to clarify one point in the article concerning whether the Reuben is a quintessential Jewish deli food. There are two types of Jewish delis: Kosher and non-kosher. The rules pertaining to Kosher food do not allow meat and dairy products to be eaten in the same meal. Since a Reuben sandwich contains corned beef (meat) and Swiss cheese (dairy), no kosher Jewish deli could serve a Reuben sandwich. The more secular Jewish delis have gotten away from the Kashruth (kosher) rules and will combine meat and cheese. Both kinds of Jewish delis serve delicious food and I mourn the loss of so many Jewish or “Jewish style” delis. A made on-premises corned beef or pastrami, from an experienced deli-master, is an experience to behold–even though it will clog your arteries.
Rather disappointing that the only recipes you give your readers are two for brisket not for corned beef ( grey)…there’s a big difference in the execution and results between the two. And all this comes right after your article states the traditional N.E. corned beef is grey (of course!). You still choose to use brisket in the recipes provided. Surely you realize one cannot be substituted for the other! Unfortunately, if a reader is looking for a recipe, they most likely do not.
Rival Crockpot has a recipe for Ruben Soup that is easy and very hearty for cold snowy spring days. It makes enough to easily feed a family and friends.
For a sandwich I steam the corned beef in a double boiler pot with a basket with the spices in the water for about 3 hours. I also steam quarter cabbage and potatoes and carrots.
Eat corned beef year round! Happy White Irish Month. Point cut is where it is at if you love a nice juicy fat beef, most people do not realize and listen to recipes that say always buy flat cut beef.
I use the canned corned beef to make a Schoolhouse BBQ. Had it when I was in elementary many years back and my neighbor who cooked there reduced the recipe to feed a normal family. Only time I eat it. 1 can corned beef on a medium skillet, 1/2 cup water, mash the beef down, add 1 cup ketchup, wosterchire-1 tsp., dash of salt. diced onion if you want. stir, simeer until it thickens, stir occasionally. 15-20 minutes, serve on buns with mayo and a slice of tomato. Easy meal.
Just want to add this ‘recipe’ for a sandwich our family has loved for many years. We used to get it in a little deli in Avalon, NJ. Just called the Corned beef Special. On Rye bread with 1000 island dressing lots of corned beef topped with coleslaw. Simple but delicious and I’m surprised we haven’t seen it more. One time, also in NJ we saw it as the New Yorker. Good fresh rye bread is essential!
Hi I am an Irish American from Boston. My family plus visitors always enjoyed a boiled dinner made with gray brisket corned beef on the day of the Saint Patrick’s parade. My mother made the best hash with the left overs. The corned beef sandwich described in this article, we called a Reuben. A Reuben was sandwich you could get at the local deli. The Reuben sandwich. although delicious, wasn’t something typically made in the Irish American household. The Reuben sandwich is made with warm corned beef (usually red brisket), swiss cheese, sauerkraut, topped with Russian dressing and served on dark Rye bread. It is delicious!